9. Drawers: Either Federal Issue pattern or civilian patterns acceptable. Federal issue drawers should be made of cotton canton flannel, with cotton tape ties in the rear and the ankles. Hand sewn paperback tin buttons, buttonholes, and tieback grommet holes. These should wear high on the waist. If worn, Civilian drawers should be made of fabrics such as cotton canton flannel, cotton osnaburg, or linen. Other features include hand-sewn buttonholes, buttons, and tieback grommet holes. Buttons may be bone, china, or other documented compositions. Civilian drawers should also ride rather high on the waist. We highly recommend all members have at least one pair of drawers.

10. Socks: Either wool or cotton, hand knitted or period machine construction, with period tops and side seams, available in varying lengths. It is preferred members stick to dull colors such as gray, brown, cream, blue, dark green, tan, or dark red.

11. Suspenders: Must be of documented style and construction. Since the Federal Army did not issue these, soldiers had to either purchase a pair from a merchant, have them sent from home, or simply went without them. They were made out of cotton drill or linen, with differing degrees of sophistication. Common styles ranged from simple straps with hand-sewn buttonholes (poorboys), to sewn straps with two or three tined brass adjustments, featuring leather ends on each side. Cheap, sutler row suspenders are highly discouraged as they will not be allowed in most progressive events the 24th Missouri attends.

12. Spectacles: For those individuals who need vision correction, you MUST purchase a set of period eyeglasses filled with your prescription, wear contact lenses, or go without. This is not negotiable. Period spectacles of the mid-19th century had features such as oval or rectangular frames, arch or crank bridges, and straight or sliding temple pieces with a small teardrop final. Frames were commonly made out of brass, silver, or gold. Lenses were invariably made out of glass. 

13. Cartridge Box: U.S. Pattern of 1855, 1857, & 1861 .58 caliber cartridge boxes are all acceptable. Cartridge boxes should be sewn by hand using waxed linen thread, comprised of tanned leather, dyed black, with tins, and cartridge box plate attached with a small piece of leather. 

 14. Cartridge Box Belt: Made of bridle leather, dyed black, 2.25 inches wide, and 55.5 inches long clear of billets. Billets (two narrow four hole adjustment strips) should be 4.25 inches in length at each end of the belt. The total length of the cartridge box belt is 64 inches. The cartridge box belt should be shortened so the top of the cartridge box is no lower than the bottom of the waist belt. The round eagle cartridge box belt plate (breastplate) should be attached using a small piece of leather.

15. U.S. Pattern Waist belt: Made of bridle leather, dyed black, 1.9 inches wide, 38.5 inches long, with option of standing leather loop keeper for early mid war impressions or the brass belt keeper. Can also go without any belt keeper as noted by several documented specimens in which their owner cut-off the keeper due to the awkwardness of this device. Lead backed belt plate with either early-mid war stud backed plate or later war arrow back plate to be used according to the desired scenario portrayed. 

16. U.S. Pattern Cap Box: Made of bridle leather, dyed black, has an outer flap with latching tab, wool strip hand sewn to the back of the inner flap, cone pick loop, riveted brass finial, and two waist belt loops which were hand sewn to the back of the cap box. May also have small copper rivets to hold waist belt loops onto the cap box as seen in some contractor pieces. Once again, the cap box should be entirely hand sewn. Arsenal or contract pieces are acceptable. Shield front cap boxes are also acceptable. 

17. U.S. Pattern Bayonet Scabbard: Must be of U.S. Pattern, no British Enfield Scabbards allowed. We prefer the early war pattern two rivet sewn style, or allow the pattern 1863 seven rivet bayonet scabbard for specific late war impressions. These bayonet scabbards were made of black dyed bridle leather and featured attached frogs of either bridle or buff leather. All bayonet scabbards must have a secure brass tip. Once again, this item should be hand sewn. 

18. U.S. Pattern Haversack: Some basic features include machine sewn construction, black tarred exterior coating that seeps into the interior, cotton or linen inner bag attached by three hand sewn 5/8 inch tin buttons, hand sewn inner bag button holes, black 5/8 inch roller buckle, and a one piece shoulder strap of 40 to 45 inches in length. Haversacks must ride at the small of the back, with the top of the haversack no lower than the waist belt. To make adjustments, either cut and re-sew the strap or fold over the excess portion and re-sew using 100% cotton or linen black thread. Remember, haversacks should only hold those items of your mess gear (tin cup, utensils, & plate) and your rations. Outside of emergency items (i.e. car keys, prescription meds etc.) they should not be the resting-place for your personal items or so called “haversack stuffers.”

19. U.S. Pattern Smooth side Canteen: Must be a U.S. Pattern 1858 Smooth side Canteen, with correct brownish/gray jean wool cover (kersey blue being reluctantly accepted), pewter spout, leather or cloth strap (see below), jack chain (New York Depot only!) or string stopper attachment. If string is used, then the tin strap brackets should not have a punched in hole. The canteen must ride at the small of the back. Proper means of strap adjustment include cutting the strap and re-sewing it using 100% cotton or linen thread, or tying a knot in the strap. Canteen straps shall be determined per event scenario. 

20. U.S. Pattern 1855 Double bag Knapsack: Hand or machine sewn linen body tarred black with a glossy appearance, black dyed shoulder straps, blackened buckles, hand sewn buckles & keepers, reinforcements of split leather, and overcoat straps. Wartime documented contract versions are also acceptable.